Fooooooooooood! As noted in our previous post about what to do in Seville, Spain, this isn’t really a definitive list of where you should dine, or what you should stuff your face with when you visit this city.
It’s actually a rundown of where we ate when my sister and brother-in-law came to visit us earlier this year. This is not a comprehensive guide, this is not a ‘you must eat here or you failed’ situation, and this does not discount the hundreds of other tasty places in Seville.
It just so happens that we ate at these places. Some of them were a must, while others were chosen due to specific situations, time constraints, weather, or whatever else. Just…read below and you’ll see. Mmmkay? Great. Let’s go!
The first thing you should know about Seville is that its food scene is ever-evolving. While it’s nearly impossible to get really good Chinese, Thai, or Indian food here, sushi places abound and there are a bunch of highly recommended ones that we did not eat at. Ha. Outside of that type of scenario, there are countless traditional bars, gastropubs, fusion restaurants, and quite a few chefs and restaurateurs who are taking the historic eats of this area and turning them into something wild.
Many pretentious people will tell you it’s not a foodie heaven. They’ll say the restaurants aren’t nice enough, or there are no places here featured on whatever stupid blog they read, or that Seville wasn’t even on some random Food Network show. Whatever. I don’t care. There are plenty of delicious treats here, and they’re ripe for the eating. If there wasn’t great food to be had here, we wouldn’t be here. There are, actually, some really fancy restaurants here as well, but I wouldn’t really know about that because it’s mostly unnecessary to know about that.
Also, it’s crazy affordable to eat out in Seville. Part of that is the tapas culture, and part of that is the social contract that I believe exists in cities like this. It’s a culture that requires being out and about, popping to and fro and in and out of this bar and that. People gotta eat when they’re living the good life, and the city provides.
So anyway, here’s where the food came from when Heidi and Ben rolled into town. We have plenty of others we’d recommend as well, but we didn’t get to them during this particular week for one reason or another. If you have any suggestions for other places – there are dozens – feel free to leave them in the comments.
They say it’s the most important meal of the day. I don’t know about that, but what I do know about is ‘second breakfast,’ aka elevensies. Many people here will eat before work, and then ditch work again at 10 or 11am for a coffee and maybe a pastry. Heidi and Ben really got into this idea while they were on vacation, and we can’t recommend it more.
The most important thing you can do for your breakfast in Seville is to just find a local bar, sit outside, and order a tostada. And a coffee. And if you’re feeling like it, a juice. Any respectable place here only serves fresh-squeezed orange juice, so you can’t really go wrong there.
Maybe you like meat or jam or something else on your tostada. Or, maybe you don’t want one of those, and you want churros con chocolate instead. That’s cool, too. Angela and I usually go for a tostada with jamón, olive oil, and tomatoes (for her, not me). Breakfast time is a great time to sit outside, enjoy a bite, and watch the world hustle and bustle to and fro.
We did it daily when they were here, and we do it daily when they’re not. As previously stated, it doesn’t matter where you go. Our favorite places are our neighborhood places, just like they are for everyone else who lives here. So, if you happen to be in our neighborhood, you can hit up these joints.
Calle Baños 60
At the corner of Calle Goles. Tell Chico and Maribel we sent you. There are only two high-top tables outside, but there is plenty of seating inside. This is our go-to because it’s so close to our house. And because we love these guys. If they had low tables, my breakfast hour would easily bleed into two.
Calle Santa Vicenta María s/n
Tell Salva, Johnny, and the gang that we sent you. They have some of the best bread in the city for their tostadas. But, they run out and switch to something else if it’s too busy. Don’t be late! The other bread is fine, though. Also, this is a great place to have an afternoon snack or a coffee/drink. It’s just behind the main El Corte Inglés at Plaza Duque, on a side street.
Sometimes, you don’t want to go out. And that’s fine! You can order online (even as a tourist) from places like Just Eat or La Nevera Roja. Just sign up, put in your info, and go. Otherwise, you can call or stop by a place and pick something up, just like you can in the rest of the world.
While the Asian food here leaves something to be desired, there are very good pizzas, döner kebab, and hamburgers to be had.
Calle Peris Mencheta 23
We only order delivery from here, but this is the spot with that good döner kebab. As former residents of Germany, we have a fine-tuned palate for ye olde döner, and we do not take it lightly. From our experience here, El Zapatazo stands above and beyond the rest. They also have really good falafel and fries. We ordered in with Ben and Heidi one night after a long day trip to Ronda and Zahara de la Sierra.
Calle Peris Mencheta 42
Just across the street from El Zapatazo, between the popular Alameda and Calle Feria locales. They deliver – which we’ve gotten – but we actually stopped by here one Saturday to join some friends for pizza and a drink. They also have good hummus and sandwiches. They have a patio outside, so eating there is a good choice as well.
Snacks, Lunch, and Dinner
Lunch is often the bigger meal here, but we kind of just do our own thing and eat whenever. Of course, we’re restricted by siesta – yes, that’s a real thing – so meals are to be had generally between 2-5pm and 8pm-midnight. Some places vary. If you find a restaurant that’s serving food at 6pm, you probably don’t want to be there.
We often see tourists at doors of restaurants, looking at the hours or trying to figure out why they’re not open. This is natural, but I’m here to tell you that you shouldn’t be surprised when you can’t eat lunch at noon, or dinner at 6 or 7pm.
It should also be noted that a lot of places are closed on Mondays here. Be forewarned, and have a backup in case your Monday choice is taking a day off.
Also, it’s important to note that a lot of places offer tapas, medias, and raciones. Think of these like personal size, plate size, and sharing-with-the-table size. Stick with tapas so you can experience a bunch of different things. The others aren’t really necessary unless you want to share one specific dish with your partner or a group, or you know what you’re getting into. Various restaurants also only offer certain dishes as medias or raciones, due to the ingredients or preparation or some other reason. And that’s okay.
For a better example: Angela and I usually share, say, three tapas between us since we like to mix it up. And, if we’re hungry after that, we order more. No one will care that you’re sharing. This is Spain, and this is what you do.
You will also get charged for bread at nearly every place. You will be served with a basket, usually filled with picos – little crunchy, bite-size bread sticks – along with napkins and silverware. A lot of places will put bread in there, too. They will ding you for this. And, unless you’re pinching pennies, just go with it. We find that it’s nothing to get worked up about. Also, we like picos and bread, so we eat them.
A reminder that these just happen to be the places we went while the fam was here. There are tons of others, and we have some honorable mentions below.
Calle Harinas 10
Don’t get confused with the other, similarly named place or places. Go to this one, and only this one. It’s the real deal – a family-run establishment that’s been around for ages. It might feel hard to find when you look at a map, but it’s just west of the cathedral, on the other side of Avenida de la Constitución, on a back street. It gets crazy packed, but it’s worth it. Your number one job here is to order the pringá. Don’t ask questions – just do it. Then, thank us in the comments. You should also get the patatas aliñadas, which are homemade daily. The carrillada (stewed pork cheek) is outstanding as well. Great for lunch, never been here for dinner.
Calle Santa Teresa 2
A lot of locals will tell you not to go here, because they think it’s touristy. What they need correcting on is that it’s in a touristy neighborhood, but not a touristy place. It’s dead in the middle of Santa Cruz, in the old Jewish quarter, surrounded by gift shops, tourist sights, and the like. Because of this, some people we know just think it’s for visitors because they don’t want to go deep down into the hordes. Understood. But, it’s actually one of the best traditional bars in the city, alive and well for nearly 150 years. They have fantastic jamón, chorizo, and other tapas snacks. The chorizo here gives me hallelujahs. Ask the bartender what to pair them with, or just go full force and order a bottle of recommended red like we do. A great place for a snack or a really traditional tapas bar lunch.
Locations at Calle Zaragoza 5; Calle Jesús del Gran Poder 31; Calle Conde de Barajas 12; and Calle Mateos Gago 8
Angela and I continue to have mixed feelings about La Azotea. We first went to the one on Gran Poder over three years ago, and were impressed. Every time we went back after, it felt like the quality was suffering. I feel like this was due to their rapid expansion that now includes at least four locations. Also, while it’s not expensive, per se, it’s more expensive and less great than a lot of other places we frequent. Basically, we usually feel that it’s overrated. However…we ended up at the location near the cathedral on Calle Mateos Gago because of a restaurant-hours situation. We thought our preferred destination was open on a particular day, and it wasn’t. Being late, we didn’t want to hunt or go across town, and La Azotea was staring at us. In the tourist center, no less. Alas, we took the plunge. And you know what? We’re glad we did. Because, it was much better than our previous experiences, and our waiter – Momo – is one of the best in the city at his job. Ask for him if you can. We had a wonderful time dining here, eating all of Momo’s recommendations, and going through plenty of wine. While I won’t say that it’ll always be this good, I do think that it’s worth a shot and that it might have gone back on the uptick toward its reputation as one of the best places in Seville.
Calle Feria 98
This seafood joint is tucked in next to the market on Calle Feria. It’s all about (fried) fresh seafood here, and this is where you want to be for a real-deal experience. Just start ordering random things – you won’t understand what most are – and have at it. You’ll be surprised at what you like, especially after you find out what it actually is. Ha! There are several tables outside and a little bar area as well. There’s not really a better place to get a feel for how seafood fare is so integral to life here in Seville.
Plaza de la Puerta Real 6
One of our favorite places for both lunch and dinner. These guys serve a fusion of traditional fare with the contemporary visions in the chef’s head. They have a huge patio in the plaza, as well as indoor seating. Tell Jaime, David, and the gang that we sent you. Then, ask for recommendations or just have at it. Some of our favorites are the salteado ibérico (stir-fry with grilled Iberian pork), queso ahumado (grilled, smoked cheese with a fruity, honey sauce), and la flowclórica (grilled abanico pork steak with a side of various potatoes and vegetables). They also have an extensive wine list with some rare treasures, as well as craft beers from the town of Cuenca and craft ciders from Galicia.
Alameda de Hércules 76
Situated in the midst of probably 100 restaurants, cafés, and bars on the Alameda, Al Aljibe stands out for its specialties that make me cry with joy. My absolute favorite here is the arugula and Parmesan risotto. So many drools. I get it every single time, and I never won’t get it. They also have delicious ribs, secreto ibérico (grilled pork), and salmon. In addition, I’ve never had a better piece of carrot cake in Seville. And, I always order the carrot cake when it’s available. You can sit outside on their patio, or inside on the ground floor like a crazy person. If you want to sit upstairs, that’s only for full meals and you can’t order tapas up there. Just a heads-up.
Vinería San Telmo
Paseo de Catalina de Ribera 4
The owner, Juan, came to Spain many years ago as a visitor; and well, he stuck around and married a Spaniard. He’s originally from Argentina, and his baby is Vinería San Telmo. They, too, have some of the best wines you can ask for, with a glassed-in wine cellar thing right inside the restaurant. They have a mix of all different types of traditional and fusion cuisine, and you really can’t go wrong. I am in love with their massive, breaded prawns, as well as their chicken pastry. The salads are fantastic here as well. This place is very busy most of the time, and I recommend you call or stop by to make a reservation if you’re going for dinner. They also have a large patio, which is where you’ll find us when we’re in that area of town. Bonus: Juan’s wife makes all of the desserts. And they are insane.
Calle Arguijo 3
Relatively new in terms of places in this city, which tend to be decades – if not centuries – old, Perro Viejo sits on a side street not too far from Las Setas. The owners hold in their hands several restaurants here in town, but this one takes the cake for us. You can get everything from duck with rice to homemade pasta and ribs here, and the menu will have you scratching your head at what to order next. They have a patio as well as a large bar and small dining room on the ground floor, plus additional dining space upstairs. If you get there when they open, you’re fine. Otherwise, make a reservation if you’re going for dinner. It’s not my favorite, but I’ll never turn down a suggestion of eating here. Also, the wait staff is really great.
Calle Baños 32
This Peruvian-Japanese fusion restaurant serves up some excellent sushi, ceviche, and more in its small space on Calle Baños. It’s quite popular these days, so be sure to make a reservation if you’re going for dinner…especially on the weekend. You should be just fine for lunch any day. I’ve never been a fan of either of the aforementioned sushi and ceviche, but this place won me over on both counts. They also have plenty of cooked and more traditional dishes as well.
So, that’s where we actually ate when the family was in town. This leaves off a host of other great places in Seville. Because of that, I’ve decided to give you some more suggestions below. We didn’t go to these places with Heidi and Ben mostly due to time constraints, or us wanting to go on their off day, or one of the places even being on vacation for the entire month. You can’t get ’em all!
Calle Eslava 3
Catalina Casa de Comidas y Más (Spanish, Fusion)
Plaza Padre Jéronimo de Córdoba 12
Arte y Sabor (Spanish, Fusion, Moroccan)
Alameda de Hércules 85
Calle Hernando Colón 1-3
La Pepona (Spanish)
Calle Javier Lasso de la Vega 1
Mano de Santo (Mexican)
Alameda de Hércules 90
La Quinta (Spanish)
Plaza Padre Jerónimo de Córdoba 11
Calle Medalla Milagrosa 3
La Fábrica (Spanish)
L’Oca Giuliva (Italian)
Calle Mateos Gago 9
Badulaque (Spanish, Grill)
Alameda de Hércules 54
House of Burger (Burgers)
Calle San Roque 13
La Brunilda (Spanish)
Calle Galera 5
Sahumo (Spanish, Grill)
Calle Zaragoza 18
Amarillo Albero (Spanish)
Plaza de la Gavidia 5
Dos de Mayo (Spanish)
Plaza de la Gavidia 6
Casa Manolo León (Spanish)
Calle Guadalquivir 12
This is a crazy long list. I think the most important take here is that you don’t need to hunt all over the city, looking for somewhere to eat. A lot of these places are spread out in different neighborhoods. You can and should always ask locals – from people on the street to your hotel or landlord – where to go. Don’t be afraid to pop into somewhere, especially if you see a lot of people (tourist areas not included). You never know what sort of gems you might find.
I’m sure I forgot some, and I’m sure some people won’t agree with us. Such is the nature of this thing! If you have any questions about food, or where to eat here in Seville, please feel free to comment away. You can also check the blogs Sunshine & Siestas and Azahar Sevilla for more information about Seville cuisine. If you want to take a tapas tour, Azahar Sevilla has you covered.
Eat. Drink. Enjoy. Repeat.
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Have you ever been to Seville? If so, what’d you think about the food, and what was your favorite place? If you haven’t been, what say ye? Let us know your thoughts in the comments!